Sacherer the virtuoso helped define modern free climbing, and today we take the definition for granted, but back then he shattered conceptions, and was about the only climber who gave Royal Robbins a run for his money.
Robbins returned later that year, and using knowledge gleaned from his previous four ascents, smoked the route in three hours 14 minutes. I have not been able to find a single photograph of Sacherer on a lead! In all, he made 33 first ascents or first free ascents, a tally bested only by Robbins and Pratt for the era. Little known is that Sacherer imagined doing the Nose in a day, and climbing it all free—revolutionary thinking in the early s when the Nose was still an infant with just two repeats.
To that end, he made at least one free attempt, with Bridwell, and took a breezy fall out of the Stovelegs.
Camp 4 (Yosemite)
Sacherer moved to Switzerland before he could realize his dreams for the Nose , leaving it to Bridwell, who in , with Jim Stanton, freed climbed the Stovelegs, and who in climbed the Nose in a day with John Long and Billy Westbay. Sacherer did succeed on some of his free and fast imaginations, making the first one-day ascent of the West Face of Sentinel.
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A stickler for details, Sacherer carefully considered every item of gear to be carried, even to the point of analyzing candy bars to determine which provided the most energy for its weight. Those who climbed with Sacherer knew that he was a disciplinarian, about free climbing, and anything else. In Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber , Steve Roper writes that Sacherer was a stickler for being on time, and would leave Camp 4 at p.
Scaling the Walls of Yosemite
In , Roper, then 20, and Sacherer, 21, departing from their standard diet of rock, attempted iced-up slabs on Half Dome. Using ice axes and crampons but no rope, they made good progress until encountering two inches of powder snow over a quarter inch of ice on ever-steepening rock.
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Vainly attempting to self-arrest, he rocketed feet to land in a pile of ice debris at the base. Roper, who had lost his glasses, sat up and shouted up that he was OK. Two years previously, Sacherer had made the first one-day ascent of the wall, and was so verbally abusive to his partner, who was belaying him, that his partner threatened to untie from the anchor.
Higher on the route they unroped again, presumably to improve speed. It was a good pairing. Sacherer and Bridwell eliminated all four aid pitches, three at 5. Bridwell would go on to make a name for himself in his own right. For Sacherer, however, a weekend climber studying physics, there was a higher calling still. In he received his Ph. By he and his wife, Jan, were living in a VW bus in Europe where they visited 13 countries.
Camp 4 : Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber - istaupronab.ml
He was hired a day later. He published 23 papers on particle physics, and many of these are referenced even today. Annually, there is The Frank Sacherer Prize for making a significant, original contribution to the accelerator field.
Sacherer never fully realized his contributions. Camp 4 : Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber.
Steve Roper. Young nonconformists -- many of them the finest rock climbers in the world -- channeled their energy toward the largely untouched walls and cracks. Soon climbers from around the globe were coming to Camp 4 -- gathering spot for the creators of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing -- to see what all the fuss was about. Climber and author Steve Roper spent most of 10 years living in the Yosemite Valley with its intriguing inhabitants.